And the absolute essential: a casserole which can cook basically everything, even be used as a bread oven. The secret is never, ever to wash it in detergent but always in extremely hot water: that leaves a thin layer of grease and food won’t stick. Obviously if the casserole had been used for a beef stew it should be swished out with boiling water, but the general rule (to get the same wonderful surface as for the cast iron skillet) is no washing up liquid. Have a lovely weekend, dear Persephone readers, there will be a Letter tomorrow about life in lockdown and we send you all very best wishes.